Troubleshooting

1. If the hoist has been overloaded the oil will go over the relief valve and not lift the load.
2. One should observe how the load has been distributed. If the body is loaded heavy at the front this will diminish the overall lifting capacity of the hoist as well.

Confirm that all pivot points with grease zerks have been greased regularly. If a pivot point that is supposed to be greased has not been serviced regularly it is possible that the pin and bushing have gulled and that they are binding up.

Confirm that the PTO is fully engaged and working properly.

For PTO problems or questions concerning the PTO contact the installer or business you purchased the unit from.

Check reservoir oil level. See the Operators Manual for fill instructions.

Remove and inspect the suction line hose for blockage or collapse. Remove the blockage or replace the hose as required.

There may be an air leak in the suction line preventing priming of the pump. Eliminate the leak by changing the hose or tightening/replacing the clamps.

Confirm that the pump has the proper rotation. See the Operators Manual for instructions.

Check cable connections at the shifter and valve to make sure they are intact. Is the cable adjustment at the valve correct allowing the valve to fully shift? Check the Operators Manual for proper cable adjustment.

Make certain that the hydraulic circuit is plumbed correctly.

1. The pressure port of the pump is connected to the “inlet” port of the valve.
2. For direct mount hydraulics, the “B” port is the power up and should be connected to the port at the base end of the cylinder, which is opposite the end of the cylinder shaft.
3. In a double acting system the “A” port is the power down and should be connected to the port at the shaft end of the cylinder.
4. The valve needs to have a return back to the tank.

Check the pressure on the power up side of the valve.

1. On direct mount hydraulics, the “B” port is the power up side. Connect the hose that runs to the power up port of the cylinder directly into a pressure gauge (called deadheading). (Do not tee into the line with a pressure gauge. This would measure only the amount of pressure needed to raise the hoist with the amount of weight on it at that time).
2. If the pressure is not at the recommended level adjust the pressure relief valve until the desired level is obtained. Check the appropriate specs of the equipment being powered by the valve for the recommended pressure setting.
3. Loosen the jam nut on the relief cartridge. Turn the adjusting screw clockwise to increase pressure and counter-clockwise to decrease the pressure. If the pressure is okay, the cylinders internal bypass valve may be stuck open.

1. Confirm that the valve cable is adjusted correctly as noted in the Operators Manual.
2. Rugby Mfg. recommends a PTO ratio of 100-120% of engine speed.
3. Confirm that the suction line is not obstructed in any way.

1. Make sure all of the terminals are clean and tight.
2. Any corrosion should be removed from the terminals. Important: If a ground cable was fitted at initial install, remove and clean both the ground cable terminal and the aluminum base of the power unit. If a ground cable was not put in place at initial install, one should be added now.

Battery cables should be a minimum size of 1“0”. If the cables are smaller than 1”0” they should be changed.

1. Using a Volt Meter, make sure the battery is charged and offering 12 volts at the unit. Low voltage can cause the unit to either not run or not run properly, due to the valve coils not energizing and, in turn, not shifting the valve.
2. Using a Volt Meter, put the red lead on the “Hot” start solenoid post.
3. Now touch the black lead to the motor case or a ground and read the volts.

Check that the cable is attached to the threaded grounding hole on the side of the unit’s base. If it is not, one should be attached from this hole directly back to the negative post on the battery. Poor ground is the number one cause of trouble for these units.

If the unit is getting really hot when it is being operated, the unit does not have a secure ground.

1. Place the red lead from the Volt Meter onto the unit’s aluminum base.
2. Touch the black wire to a known ground.
3. With the unit running, read the meter’s millivolts. The lower the reading, the better the ground is for the unit. Any reading above 2 volts would suggest that the unit does not have a good ground.
4. For rated performance, the voltage at the power unit must be a minimum of 12 VDC. This should be measured between the large terminal of the start solenoid (where the battery cable is connected) and the base of the power unit.
   Note: Grounding of the power unit is just as important as the installation of the positive battery cable. It is easier to get a good ground by using a second battery cable.
5. Connect the large terminal on the motor start solenoid to the positive terminal on  the battery with a 1”0” gauge battery cable.
6. Connecting a second battery cable to the threaded hole in the power unit base  marked, “GRD” can complete grounding of the power unit.
7. A size 1”0” cable should be attached to the battery negative terminal.
8. Check the voltage between the large terminal on the start solenoid and the base of the power unit.

Eliminate the unit’s start solenoid, mounted to the motor, by using a jumper wire across the two large posts. This will supply power directly to the motor. If the motor runs, replace the solenoid. If the start solenoid is not energizing, it might be defective. It might also mean that the unit is not getting the proper voltage at the unit.

Make sure the cord halves are securely plugged together. Something to look for here pertains to the pins on the end of the wire in the plug. If the wire can be pulled back toward the cord, it is not locked all the way into the sealed portion of the plug. If the pin is not all the way in, it might not be making contact as needed.

1. If the hoist has been overloaded the oil will go over the relief valve and not lift the load.
2. One should observe how the load has been distributed. If the body is loaded heavy at the front this will diminish the overall lifting capacity of the hoist as well.

Confirm that all pivot points with grease zerks have been greased regularly. If a pivot point that is supposed to be greased has not been serviced regularly it is possible that the pin and bushing have gulled and that they are binding up.

Check reservoir oil level. See the Operators Manual for fill instructions.

Electric Single Acting:
On Rugby’s electric single acting power unit the “C1” port is the power up and should be connected to the port at the base end of the cylinder, which is opposite the end of the cylinder shaft.

Electric Double Acting:

1. On Rugby’s double acting power unit the “C1” port is the power up port and should be connected to the port at the base end of the cylinder, which is opposite the end of the cylinder shaft.
2. The pumps “C2” port is the power down and should be connected to the port on the cylinder towards the chrome shaft end of the cylinder tube.
3. When the up button on the controller is depressed the coil on the valve in the “C2” port of the pump should become energized thus opening the valve. To confirm that the coil has become energized lay a screwdriver over the end of the coil. It should become magnetized.

Check the pressure on the power up side of the valve. The “C1” port is the power up side.

Connect the hose that runs to the power up port of the cylinder directly into a pressure gauge (called deadheading). (Do not tee into the line with a pressure gauge. This would measure only the amount of pressure needed to raise the hoist with the amount of weight on it at that time). If the pressure is less than 3000 PSI contact a Rugby Customer Service Representative.

Confirm that the rear hinge and hoist frame have been greased. See Operators Manual for points of lubrication.

Confirm that the PTO is fully engaged and working properly.

For PTO problems or questions concerning the PTO contact the installer or business you purchased the unit from.

Check cable connections at the shifter and valve to make sure they are intact. Is the cable adjustment at valve correct allowing the valve to shift fully? See the Operators Manual for proper cable adjustment.

Make sure that no foreign material has become lodged in the hoist frame preventing it from coming down.

Confirm that the rear hinge and hoist frame have been greased. See Operators Manual for points of lubrication.

Check the down side pressure in the same manner as the power up side pressure was checked. This pressure will be checked by deadheading from the valve’s “A” port. It should be approximately 500 PSI and 800 PSI.

Prepare to try and lower the hoist manually.

1. Secure the body while in the up position by using the body prop, blocking, and/or chain hoist.
2. Once the body has been secured in the up position, remove the hose from the power up port of the valve (labeled “B”) and put it into a catch basin. Now you can remove the body prop and attempt to lower the hoist.
3. If the hoist now comes down, the oil will run into the catch basin and the problem is in the valve.

If the hoist still will not come down, the problem is in the hoist frame, rear hinge, or possibly a bent cylinder shaft. You will now have to check further for galled pivot pins or a bent cylinder shaft.

Make sure that no foreign material has become lodged in the hoist frame preventing it from coming down.

Confirm that the rear hinge and hoist frame have been greased. See Operators Manual for points of lubrication.

1. Make sure all of the terminals are clean and tight.
2. Any corrosion should be removed from the terminals. Important: if a ground cable was fitted at initial install, remove and clean both the ground cable terminal and the aluminum base of the power unit. If a ground cable was not put in place at initial install, one should be added now.

1. Check that the cable is attached to the threaded grounding hole on the side of the unit’s base. If it is not, one should be attached from this hole directly back to the negative post on the battery. Poor ground is the number one cause of trouble for these units.
2. Using a Volt Meter, make sure the battery is charged and offering 12 volts at the unit. Low voltage can cause the unit to either not run or not run properly, due to the valve coils not energizing and, in turn, not shifting the valve.
3. Using a Volt Meter, put the red lead on the “Hot” start solenoid post. Now touch the black lead to the motor case or a ground and read the volts.

1. If the unit is getting really hot when it is being operated, the unit does not have a secure ground.
   1. Place the red lead from the Volt Meter onto the unit’s aluminum base.
   2. Touch the black wire to a known ground.
   3. With the unit running, read the meter’s millivolts. The lower the reading, the better the ground is for the unit. Any reading above 2 volts would suggest that the unit does not have a good ground.
   4. For rated performance, the voltage at the power unit must be a minimum of 12 VDC. This should be measured between the large terminal of the start solenoid (where the battery cable is connected) and the base of the power unit.
      Note: Grounding of the power unit is just as important as the installation of the positive battery cable. It is easier to get a good ground by using a second battery cable.
   5. Connect the large terminal on the motor start solenoid to the positive terminal on the battery with a 1″0″ gauge battery cable.
   6. Connecting a second battery cable to the threaded hole in the power unit base
      marked, “GRD” can complete grounding of the power unit.
   7. A size 1″0″ cable should be attached to the battery negative terminal.
   8. Check the voltage between the large terminal on the start solenoid and the base of the power unit.

Make sure the cord halves are securely plugged together. Something to look for here pertains to the pins on the end of the wire in the plug. If the wire can be pulled back toward the cord, it is not locked all the way into the sealed portion of the plug. If the pin is not all the way in, it might not be making contact as needed.

1. When the down button on the controller is depressed the coil on the valve in the “C1” port of the pump should become energized thus opening the valve to allow the hoist to come down. To confirm that the coil has become energized lay a screwdriver over the end of the coil. It should become magnetized.
2. There needs to be at least 10 volts at the coil for it to work properly.
3. If the coil is becoming energized and the hoist still will not lower, you potentially have a contaminated valve or bent valve stem that will need to be replaced.
4. The valve stem can be checked by loosening the coil and spinning it around the stem. If it wobbles or moves up and down as it spins, the valve stem is bent.
5. If contamination is found on the valve screens, this can prevent the valve from shifting properly.
6. If the coil is not being magnetized it needs to be replaced.

Double Acting Hydraulics:

1. On Rugby’s double acting power unit the “C1” port is the power up port and should be connected to the port at the base end of the cylinder, which is opposite the end of the cylinder shaft.
2. The pumps “C2” port is the power down and should be connected to the port on the cylinder towards the chrome shaft end of the cylinder tube.
3. When the down button on the controller is depressed the coil on the valve in the “C1” port of the pump should become energized thus opening the valve to allow the hoist to go down. To confirm that the coil has become energized lay a screwdriver over the end of the coil. It should become magnetized.

If the hoist still will not come down, the problem is in the hoist frame, rear hinge, or possibly a bent cylinder shaft. You will now have to check further for galled pivot pins or a bent cylinder shaft.

Prepare to try and lower the hoist manually.

1. Secure the body while in the up position by using the body prop, blocking, and/or chain hoist.
2. Once the body has been secured in the up position, remove the hose from the power up port of the valve (labeled “B”) and put it into a catch basin. Now you can remove the body prop and attempt to lower the hoist.
3. If the hoist now comes down, the oil will run into the catch basin and the problem is in the valve.